Spring Planting Preparation

Spring planting preparation doesn’t have to be complicated, but a little
work the months beforehand will make the process flow more smoothly, and
the extra preparation will most assuredly allow for larger yields if done
correctly in most circumstances.
*Cannabis Genetics*

The first thing is deciding upon if you’re growing for medicine, personal
or commercial purposes. This is where quality genetics come in. One of the
easiest things to come by is clones. Clones are usually selected from a
mother plant which exhibited qualities that were worth growing for one of
the stated purposes listed earlier. Acquiring your clones from a reputable
source is something to research beforehand either from a good friend,
breeder or (if you’re lucky to live in a med state) then possibly from a
dispensary. Though this doesn’t necessarily mean that it will always be a
quality strain or that it will perform well in your grow environment.

Rooting and vegging your selections beforehand will improve your yields by
leaps and bounds. So make sure your clones have decent roots before you
invest the time and energy into your grow. Using a rooting hormone is not a
bad idea for the first several waterings, though not necessary if using
organic balanced soils once spring planting is started. I like to veg
indoors or in a greenhouse under T5 fluorescent lights. Then it’s not a bad
idea to train your plants by pinching or by other techniques used to
improve branching like the FIM technique or super cropping. The basic idea
is to make more main branches available to allow for heavier yields.
*Growing from Seed*

For those interested in growing from seed (my preferred method of growing
fine cannabis) knowing how to acquire the best genetics possible is the
most important factor when selecting what to grow. I would highly recommend
attaining your genetics from a seed bank that is reputable. Just because a
strain is hyped for a various seed bank doesn’t necessarily mean it is a
great strain to grow. It is also a fact that the price of a strain doesn’t
mean you’re going to get a better strain than one which is priced for less,
so do some research and read reviews from the various seed banks.

Selecting a strain which will grow in your environment is important. Some
strains are equatorial as either a pure line or a hybridization of an
equatorial line. This basically means the genetics for a given strain are
accustomed to 12 hours of light and 12 hours without light since its
geographical location of origin is in proximity to the equator. Strains
within this category are not as prevalent and available, but it should be
known for one’s education and the possible availability of more strains in
the future. Strains that are equatorial are Colombians, Panama strains,
Congolese basin strains, and some in close proximity that act like
equatorial strains like South East Asian strains such as Thai and Cambodian
(to name a few.) Also it should be known that these strains are less
sensitive to photo period and mature more from genetic markers than lack of
light period. A good rule to go by is to veg an equatorial strain from seed
at least 60 days to preferably 90 days from germination to allow a more
mature plant to flower. Allowing the equatorial strain to mature more
before flowering will allow for larger yields and shorten the flower time.

To start your seed with modern hybrids or strains that are from higher
latitudes such as lines from the Hindu Kush range (Afghanistan, Pakistan,
North India) know that these seeds have typically been breed for fast
maturation and are more photosensitive. Allowing the seedling to grow for
30 to 60 days from germination will produce plants that yield and grow
stronger than if one was to induce flower right away. It should be known
also that some strains will revert back to a vegetative state if daylight
hours are too short, so knowing when plants finish outdoors is important
and especially the closer to a magnetic pole you are. This shortening of
daylight hours also affects thermal inertia with the axis of the earth
moving from spring to winter, incrementally increasing CO2 in the outdoor
environment which hastens the maturation of strains which come from
non-equatorial environments.
*Germination*

Germinating seeds either new or old doesn’t have to be tricky. It does take
patience and time. This is also where quality genetics come in. Organic
seed stock tends to grow more vigorously and seems to have a longer shelf
life than seeds made with chemical fertilizers and hormones.

A simple way of germinating your seeds is the paper towel method. Some
people don’t like this method because of bleach type oxidizers in some
paper towels. The way to do the paper towel method of germinating seed is
simple. Wet at least two to three sheets of paper towels lightly to moisten
but not so that it’s saturated. Then place 10 to 13 seeds or less in a row
in the center of the paper towel. Fold the paper towel around the seeds
several times to make a type of pouch.

The next step would be to see if some more water is needed to moisten the
paper towel. If the paper is moist enough then place the moist folded paper
towel within a sealable plastic bag. Then place the plastic bag in a dark
place and inspect every 12 hours to see if the tap root is peaking through
the bottom of the seed which is the pointed side. Some seeds, depending on
age or whatever reason, may be as quick as 12 hours or as long as two
weeks. So again, patience is needed in germinating seeds.

Another method which works well but doesn’t give you an idea that the seed
is germinated right away would be to plant the seed directly in soil. I
like to layer a starting tray which is made of particle paper so once the
seedling roots in soil, it is easily able to be removed and replanted. I
like to use a basic organic potting soil which has mycorrhizae in the
bottom half layer of each starting tray. Then I use a starting soil mix
which is lighter in nutrients and not as dense on the top layer of the
starting tray. I fully saturate the soil with water three times the night
before so that the soil is moist enough to retain the water. The next day I
record which strain is placed in each location and I push the seed pointed
side down to ¾ depth or flush. I then use a dropper or turkey baster to
moisten the top of the seed with water.

You can also use additives like Super Thrive or a little H2O2 mixed with
the water to aide oxygenation and kill any pathogens that could ruin your
seedling. It should be stated that it’s a good practice to use only a
quarter strength or less of what is recommended by the manufacturer of
these products until you get used to using them with experience.

Remember your seedlings and plants like water but they also need to
breathe, so don’t over-water. Always under-water and with time your plants
will be able to intake more. I like to water every third day, but
monitoring the moisture content is important. Some environments are drier
and windy which will dry out soil mixes much more rapidly. So once you have
planted your seeds, place them in one position like by a window sill or
under T5 fluorescents to initiate growth.

I personally like to grow my new seedlings under natural light at first to
determine color traits which can only be seen initially. Growing under T5
fluorescents produces nice dark leaves and rapid growth. So after the first
set of leaves appear, transplant new seedlings into a small good draining
pot or use a plastic beer cup with holes punched out the bottom for proper
drainage. Use a basic organic soil mix and back fill the container which is
then placed under lights to vegetate and build roots and leaves.
*Amendments and Soil*

Once your selected sativa or indica variety is induced to flower either
under lights indoors/greenhouse or outdoors, having sufficient space to
allow ample root growth is essential. A good organic soil mix is preferred
and one that contains lower amounts of nitrogen is important so that
sensitive vegetative growth is not inhibited, especially for sativas.
Sometimes all that is needed is a good balanced organic soil and water,
with the addition of occasional tea if required.

If you’re into composting it’s a good idea to compost your selected plot of
land over the winter so that the breakdown of organic material happens over
a longer duration which will free up the humic and fulvic acids and other
plant energy to form humus. Once spring time comes around it’s not a bad
idea to test your soil by a soil lab to see if your soil needs to be
amended. This is a practice for many farmers around the world and it should
be used by cannabis farmers as well. Why spend the money on expensive
amendments if they are not needed?
*Picking Your Plot*

Once your plot has been selected make sure it has good available light from
morning to night or over the duration of your grow. If the plot is shadowed
by hills, mountains, walls, trees this can cause the photosensitive strains
to flower earlier and not allow enough time to mature properly which
affects the end yields of a given strain. This shadowing of a plot further
in the season can also cause plants to reveg from flower causing poor
yields and what growers call larf, basically lots of leafy buds which are
not very dense. Also hardening off the clones or seedlings is a good idea
to not shock your plants from the sun if they have been growing indoors.
This can be accomplished by giving the plants indirect sunlight for a few
days prior to planting.
*Spring Planting*

This can be done directly in the ground if your soil can retain nutrients.
Making a row of plant holes at least two feet wide to one to three feet
deep is typical and the amount of holes depends on how many plants you’re
going to be growing. Giving at least five feet of space between plants if
not more is a good idea so plants’ roots can spread out and not fight for
available nutrients. Once your holes are dug you can plant your strains in
the holes using your selected balanced soil mix and it’s a good idea to mix
in native soil as well. The mixing of native soil will encourage your
plant’s roots to spread out more and not be congested with the
nutrient-rich mix that surrounds the newly planted strains. Basically, the
more roots your plants have, the larger the flowers.

Once the holes are filled in but not packed with soil, lightly tug at the
base of your plant’s main stem to allow the roots to grow down instead of
sideways or up. Watering in the morning is acceptable if you’re in a humid
environment and mold is an issue. Watering in the evening is also a good
time, as the heat of the sun isn’t causing stress on the plants. This is
optimal for a dry environment where cannabis plants go into the dark cycle
and produce cannabinoids and terpenes. Drip irrigation works really well
for cannabis watering and it saves on your water bill.

Whatever your tastes or needs are with cannabis, please enjoy the
experience. Cannabis is one of the most beautiful growing plants in the
world with every type of color and look that can be perceived. It’s been
used for centuries around the world and is truly our Tree of Knowledge and
Life.

*Originally published in issue 6 of Cannabis Now Magazine.*

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